Enroute from Batumi to T’blisi

by Kambiz Taleghani

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There were armed skirmishes in Abkhazia (just North of Batumi area)  It has been going on for some time.   Made sure we took the right turn and not end up in Abkhazia.  The distances are so close that, if you are not careful, you could end-up in the “wrong” territory.

The road to T’blisi is beautiful at this time of year.  One continuous stretch of farms and orchards.  Many fruit stands.  Mostly women and children setting up a stand in front of their property and selling whatever the land was producing.  Apples, pears, nectarines, peaches, nuts, eggs, jams, melons, corn, chickens, honey, etc. 

When we inevitably got to the conversation of where we were coming from (California) and where we were going (China), they would laugh and smile, then refuse payment.  In one stand it got so funny: The women started loading us with bags full of fruits and pushing them into our hands and car!!  It seemed they wanted to make sure we had enough fruit to last us until China!   Never mind the possibility of spoilage and what not.   Almost in every instance we had to force the money on them by placing it, forcefully, under a saucer, mellon, or whatever could hold the notes from flying with the breeze.  The friendliest, most hospitable, and generours people.   May they be blessed with happiness, good health, and fortune.

We also passed by an area with roadside stands of terra cotta goods.    In spite of fighting around them in Abkhazia and Ossetia, the atmospher was relaxed, jovial, and that of a social gathering.   They were so involved in their own conversations, that we customers could have been a disruption to conversations.   Also a  beautiful site.    The valley, stream, atmospher, fragrance of flowers - impossible to catch in video or pictures!   

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At times like this, I wished so much that I were a better photographer and recorder of the scene to share with you.

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Although paved, it was a bumpy road most of the way to T'blisi.

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T’blisi 

by Kambiz Taleghani

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We arrived in T'blisi late at night.

T’blisi is the capital of Georgia.  Beautiful city built on both sides of Mtkvari river (no it is not misspelled!).  Mountainous on both banks of the river.  Good views from everywhere.  Inhabited since 4^th millennium B.C., it was found around 5^th Century.  Large impressive fortress build by the Sassanid kings of Persia, called NariKala (in Persian Nari Qal’ah, or Nari Kalleh). 

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The fortress walls are still standing.  Impressive site.   

Many sulfuric hot springs, some with baths and spa built around them.  Although mostly Orthodox Christian, the city shows its religious tolerance with non-orthodox churches, mosques, and synagogue.  

We took half a day to visit the “old” section of T’blisi.   Many churches.  Old ones.  Houses along narrow zig zag streets.  All still in use.  T’blisi sits on top of a number of hot springs.  Visited one bath house which was set on top of a hotspring.  They have made a number of nice natural steam rooms.

It is interesting, Georgia’s neighbours, Azerbaijan and Armenia have been at eachother’s throats since the breakup of the Soviet Union, but here, in T’blisi, Azeris and Armenians live together and worship next to eachother in, essentially the same neighbourhood. About 200 000 each.  Only about 5000 Jew left in T’blisi.  Apparently after the breakup of the Soviet Union, most Jews emigrated from Georgia.  Visited a synagogue, a mosque, and many churches.  All in apparent peace near eachother.  Very nice.

We tried to attend the performance of the Georgian ballet, but missed the end of the season by 5 days.  They were on their summer break. 

Some restaurants offer live local music and musicians during peak dinner hours.   Went to one.   Forgot the restaurant's name, but the music was nice.  A trio of musicians.

My car had a damaged front shock absorber and unbalanced wheel.  I went to a a tyre shop.  They took off the wheel, checked the balance, put it back on and … refused to accept payment. 

I stopped at a mechanic shop and had them change the shock absorber (we carried  many spare parts with us)  The same happened here.  The mechanics looked at our map, asked us where we were from, changed the parts, then refused payment.  I, eventually, had to guess the amount and forcefully leave the bills on the table before they accepted payment.    We noticed the same on the route with the villagers who had setup fruit stands in front of their properties.  When we inevitably got to the conversation of where we were coming from (California, USA) and where we were going (China), they would laugh and smile, then refuse payment.  In one stand it got so funny: The women started loading us with bags full of fruits and pushing them into our hands and car!!  It seemed they wanted to make sure we had enough fruit to last us until China!   Never mind the possibility of spoilage and what not.   Almost in every instance we had to force the money on them by placing it, forcefully, under a saucer, mellon, or whatever could hold the notes from flying with the breeze.

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