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Around the World in 66 Days - Europe to China by Car
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Turkey - Istanbul and Northern Region
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Click on image for interactive map |
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Click on image for interactive map |
We will ship our van from Los Angeles to Europe. Then fly to Europe.
Pickup the van, and begin the drive …
After
driving through Europe, we will drive through Turkey and the following Caucasia countries:
7. Turkey,
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ISTANBUL
20080703 By
Kambiz Taleghani We
arrived in Istanbul in the evening. Entering Turkey by car requires going through no less than 6 sequential
checks by equal number of departments at the border. Seems like a me-too turf war among various government
departments. It took a long time (2+ hours). Every time we went through
a check point we thought that was the last, until we saw another vehicle queue in front of us! Fortunately
we had purchased our automobile insurance from AIG in U.S. and had our Green Auto Insurance certificate (aka known as the
“Green Card” in Europe). Nice and fast 6-lane divided highway from Bulgarian border to Istanbul.
We were so close to Greece, that had we had more time, we would have taken a detour.
Arrived in Istanbul before dark and checked into Polat hotel on the seashore near the airport. Thanks to Ram Chandran, our logistics
support colleague in the U.S., the trip sponsors’ signs had arrived. We placed these magnetized signs
on the car. Also, miracle of miracles, my voice recorder was found on the AerLingus plane we took from
Los Angeles, turned-in to Lost-and-Found in Dublin airport; and through supereme efforts of Kambiz, Ram, and a FedEx employee
in Dublin, it had arrived and was waiting for us at the hotel Polat Radisson in Istanbul. We stayed at hotel Polat Radisson near Istanbul
airport. Good parking for the car. Kambiz’s frequent traveler points helped
pay for the hotel. Beautiful views of the sea. Most of our time in Istanbul was spent with last-minute organization and
provisioning for the trip.
We
did take a brief time off to visit a water park which was long-promised to Leila. It was fun. (see Leila's section,
below). Istanbul
is a most beautiful, colorful, and interesting city. We had visited the sight-seeing locations on
prior visits. Unfortunately, this time, we could not go to Dolma Baghcheh, Topkapi, the palaces by
the Bosphorus, 1400-year-old Aya Sofia Church/Mosque, and some of the most interesting eating places on the water - So sorry.
Istanbul is where Europe and Asia meet in more than a physical sense. It is a very interesting east-meets-west
place. We know of no other place similar to the beautiful, and exciting, Istanbul. We
had been here about 10 and 20 years before. This time, though, Istanbul’s air seemed more polluted
and one could feel the squeeze of the population growth. Still very exotic.
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Istanbul,
Turkey Aqua Club Dolphin, by Leila Taleghani 20080704
Since we were not driving straight through Istanbul, and had some extra time, we decided to go to a water park.
This aqua park, or water park, is definitely not as big as the ones I’ve been to in LA. The few slides they had
were great, and the pools were huge. There were six slides open, and I went on all of them. The first one I went on, was,
well, it was the one with the shortest line. At first, it was enclosed, and then when you entered the open again, you went straight down. It might seem
fast or scary when looking at it, but it was actually quite relaxing.
The second slide I went on was a bumpy one. Kind of like a super slide with a lot more bumps. When I got to the bottom,
the place where you get deposited into the pool, I slid off the mat I was on. I had to jump back on the
slide to get it. The third was an open one you needed an inner tube to go on. My dad and I took a double tube and went on
it. The weight of both of us combined comes out to about 340 lbs. Enough to feel like you’re going to flip over the
top. At the end of that slide, when we got dumped into the pool, the sudden slowing caused my dad to flip into the water,
while I was still sitting in the inner tube stretched back, and totally comfortable.
The next slide we tried was one similar to the third, but enclosed. (And it was painted red, while the first was blue.)
This one required screaming. It was not that scary or fast, but it was one of those slides you just have to scream on.
Right after being in pitch black on this one, you suddenly enter thin, rainbow skylights. Then it goes back to being
black. You know those things that
you put a coin into and it spins around and around until it drops into a hole? Well, we went on a human version of that. Except
our feet got all banged up. This
next one was definitely my favorite. I went on it twice. You should know that this one
is shaped like a “V.” You go down on side, and up the other, then down, up, down, up, and you
eventually stop. The first time worked out perfectly. I was standing in line, watching the people go down. Except that the top was so steep I couldn’t see the drop. Finally, it was my turn. The lifeguard put my inner
tube down, and I sat in it. Then he pushed, and I was off. I had watched the people’s faces, and they all looked relaxed
and comfortable. But my eyes were wide, and my mouth was open. I sped down the four-story drop, and went right back up on
the other side. Just like I had seen everyone else do, I waved my feet when I reached the top of the other side. Then I was
headed back down. I let my face relax, and I knew that the fastest, scariest, (and best) part was over. I went up and down
a little, and eventually slowed and went down into the pool. I got out. It was fun. The end. Well, not really. I did it again.
But this time… Things did not
work out so perfectly this time. I started and went straight down like the first time. But I didn’t go up and down slowly
as much as I should have. Not at max. speed, but pretty close, I rammed into a hard cushion, twisting my head. (I’m
fine now.) Then, at the middle of the “V,” the place where the water starts to slow down, I stopped. I scraped
my feet against the slide, trying to move, but I was stuck. I bounced a little in the tube, but nothing happened. Finally,
I reached my hand over, and pushed off. That did it. I slid down, and was dumped into the pool. Kambiz did not have luck on
his side. After my first time on the “V” shaped slide, I waited for him to come down, but he still didn’t
come after two people had come down. Then I saw him coming down the stairs.
“What happened?” I asked. “The
lifeguard looked at me, and pointed to his arms, saying, ‘problem.’ I pointed at my stomach, and asked ‘problem?’
He nodded. Apparently, I am too heavy to go on the slide,” Kambiz answered laughing.
We went on a few more slides after that, but then we had to go.
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Saffron Bolu By Kambiz Taleghani 20080706 We left Istanbul around noon. Our destination today: Town of Saffron Bolu,
200 km north of Ankara, the Capital. More on Saffron Bolu later, below. Since Istanbul was a major 3-day replenishing stop for us,
it took us about 3 hours to load all our stuff in and on the car. Just out of Istanbul, the Air Conditioning stopped working – again! We headed East towards Ankara on a toll road.
Excellent highways until we passed north of Ankara, then intermittent 2-lane highways became the norm.
Wooded hills and mountains almost all the way. Nice road stops on the way.
Clean facilities. Petrol Stations accept Visa and Mastercard.
Most rest stops have separate prayer rooms for men and women. Very interesting. They
are called masjids. Larger rest areas have parking, picnic, restaurant, fuel, mini-market, gift shops,
etc. Arrived Saffron Bolu before
in early evening. Old town.
On the Silk route. Main product: Saffron. Turkey
produces about 15 Kg of Saffron here every year. At $9/gram, that is under $180,000 annual Saffron sales.
Rich merchants built large well-appointed houses in 19th century. UNESCO
World Heritage Site. Maintained in the original state. Most old houses have
been equipped with modern trappings and serve as hotels. Very limited motorized traffic allowed.
Narrow streets. Small mini-bazaars. This was one tour one does not need a guide. Just
walk around by yourself and experience life as it might have been in 19th century Ottoman Turkish village. A number of tourist buses had parked outside
the periphery of the village, and were leaving as we arrived. Nice
mosque, Turkish Bath (still working), bazaar, etc. Perfect for overnight stay.
We checked in to an old and well-preserved merchant’s house. This was converted to a
4-star hotel. The hotel had a houz. This is an indoor pool that actually cools the house as the breeze
passes over the water. Cushions and round brass tables around. The ever-present
Samovar for tea, waterpipe for those who smoked, and assortment of sweets and fruits abound. Dry warm weather.
Took a walk through the town. Really pleasant. Narrow streets (circa 1700’s-1800’s).
Compact bazaar. Everything preserved as of two centuries ago. A few donkeys
and many cats! With the sunset
and the slight breeze came the fragrance of the recently-watered plants, roses, and jasmines. Oh…
the jasmine in the air! Those of you who have lived in dry warm climates know what we experienced
that evening. Evening dinner was at the garden restaurant of the hotel. What
a treat! It was a dream. Natural cabanas, covered with grape vines.
Fruit trees everywhere. Well-maintained and trimmed gardens. Water fountain in
the houz. Leila was enjoying the company of multiple cats who had detected a tender heart and a giving hand!
Oh yes… and the soft Turkish music from unseen corners of the garden. To top that off… it was totally unexpected pleasant surprise of an overnight stop, thanks to Adriana’s good sense of finding the right place as we go.
Thank you Adriana. Thank you UNESCO! Thank you Turkey! .
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. To Trabzon by Kambiz Taleghani 20080706
We arrived Trabzon late last
night. Drove all the way from Saffron Bolu. On the way we passed through a number of
towns on the Black Sea coast of Turkey. Very green. Cool.
Rains frequently. On the way passed by the town of Ordu. Ordu must
have the largest chocolate factory in the world! We had heard about this place and were looking for
what I thought would be a chocolate factory, but let me tell you this is a HUGE CHOCOLATE FACTORY. I was sure we were in
the wrong place and they made cars in there! Then we went to the factory store which was near
the entrance and had a sample of everything the factory made. What a treat. A
very dangerous place, if you ask my humble opinion – especially if you are there before dinner. Big
mistake! For those of you who like peanut butter, I tell you, this place had hazelnut butter which
was served from ice cream dispensers! Just pull down the handle and out flows unlimited hazelnut paste!
Too bad they would not let us photograph this wonder. Then stopped for dinner at a
seaside restaurant. Mostly fresh seafood. You just choose your own fresh
catch of the day and they make it for you. We had mostly fresh fish grilled on the everpresent
charcoal broiler. Very clean and inexpensive compared to California prices. Trabzon
is an ancient city on the Coast of Black Sea. It is a big city with all its trappings. Located on the
historical Silk Road, it became a melting pot of religions, languages and culture for centuries and a trade gateway to Iran
in the east, Russia and the Caucuses to the North Venetians and Genoese paid visit and sold silk linen and woolen fabrics.
During the Ottoman period Trabzon, because of the importance of its port, became a focal point of trade
to Iran, India and the Caucasus. (this paragraph is mostly from Wikipedia) Today, there are many tea plantations visible on the mountains as you drive
towards Trabzon. We arrived late in Trabzon and stayed at a hotel on a busy street.
Convenient. Adriana chose it, but later did not like it. Busy downtown 4-star hotel.
We all agreed the food was very good.
. . . Sumela Monastery By Kambiz Taleghani 20080707
We left Trabzon (N.E. Turkish Black Sea coast) around noon and went south
into the mountains for about one hour towards Sumela Monastery. After 30Km, the road branches into
a narrow road, which passes through a very narrow and beautiful valley. The temperatures are much lower
than the seaside. Luscious green. Misty.
Sumela Monastery
was build in 4th century a.d. by Greek Priests in an amazingly hard to reach mountain, under large and steep cliffs.
We drove over a number of very narrow and steep switchbacks to reach an upper elevation. It was
fun. There were a number of Trout Ponds on the way. One restaurant in particular stood
out on the side of the creek. See the picture. Due to the narrow valley and steep sides,
the forests seem untouched to this day. There
was a short hike on paths carved and formed on steep mountains. Extremely peaceful. There is an aqueduct
which brings fresh spring water to the monastery. The setting is very interesting. You
cannot help but wonder how they were able to haul supplies all the way up the cliffs to build this place. This
is a big place! Chapels, kitchens, guest quarters, storage rooms, libraries, etc. Very
little of the original artifacts are left. What was left was taken to Greece in the 1920s.
See description below. We tried to capture the feel of the place on video and pictures.
It is hard to do! This is one place you really need a 3D camera!
Here is an abbreviated
version of what Wikipedia site says: “The Sümela Monastery (Greek: Παναγία
Σουμελά,
Turkish: Sümela Manastırı) was founded in the year 386
(during the reign of the Emperor Theodosius I, AD 375 - 395) by two Athenian priests - Barnabas
and Sophronius. Legend states that they found an icon of the Virgin Mary in a cave on the mountain and decided to remain
in order to establish the monastery.
During
its long history, the monastery has fallen into ruin several times and been restored by successive Emperors. During
the 6th Century AD, it was restored and enlarged by General
Belisarius at the behest
of Justinian. It
reached its present form in the 13th century after gaining prominence during the reign of Alexios III (1349 - 1390) of the Komnenian
Empire of Trebizond
(established in 1204). At that time, it was granted an income from imperial funds. During the time of Manuel III , son of Alexius III, and the
reigns of later princes, Sümela gained further wealth from new imperial grants. Following the conquest
by the Ottoman Sultan
Mehmed II in 1461, it was granted protection
by order of the Sultan and given rights and privileges which were renewed by following Sultans. Monks and travelers continued
to journey there throughout the years and the monastery was extremely popular up until the 19th century. The
Monastery was seized for a time by the Russians during the occupation of Trabzon between 1916 - 1918.
It
was finally abandoned in 1923, following the population exchanges
between Greece and
Turkey after the Treaty of Lausanne.
Today its main purpose is as a tourist attraction. Its place overlooking
the forests and streams below make it extremely popular for its aesthetic attraction as well as for its cultural and religious
interests. The Turkish government is currently undertaking necessary restoration works to the site.”
We left the monastery
around 4 p.m. and drove to Batumi, Georgia. It was a nice 200Km of divided highway at fast speed.
The scenery was as good as it can get with steep green mountains on our right and blue waters of Black Sea on our left.
What a misnomer, “Black Sea”! Really beautiful with sun behind us, reflecting
off the cliffs on the right, and sea on the left. Unlimited access to the coast with no structures
on either side of the road for most of the way.
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Europe to China by Car Adriana
Vernon Kambiz Taleghani Leila Taleghani
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