When we got back to our car, there was a uniformed officer issuing a parking violation ticket.  Once he saw us, he smiled and cancelled the ticket. Said he would re-use it on the next car.  Just then his partner appeared.  They travel in pairs.   They asked if we were from the U.S.   I said yes and that I had left Iran about 42 years ago, when a teenager.   The newly-arrived officer suddenly said I had done the right thing!  He was very upset about the "situation" there and was venting his dissatisfaction loudly.   I was surprised and taken back that someone, an officer, would publicly and loudly vent his frustration.   Very  surprising. Kept going on and on cursing the government and "them" (I guessed he meant the ruling clergy, judging by his hand gestures).   We had heard similar mumbling and sentiments before, but nothing like this!   We were told by a couple of taxi drivers (mostly in Tehran) that the clergy are now reluctant to be seen in public for fear of negative reaction on the streets.    Come to think of it, during our entire time in Iran we only once saw a robed, turbaned mullah.   Beside him, I seemed to be the only person who sported a beard during our travels in Iran!   Me, and that one mullah we saw!  I forgot which city that was.    Everyone called me "Haji Agha".  I found that humorous at first.    Never had anyone calling me "haji" before!   Adriana and Leila found that hilarious.  I had let my beard grow pretty long.  So, I must have looked like a "haji"!

Wasted much time looking for a bank to deposit the Tabriz hotel's required room charge as a prepayment.    Iranian hotels have an unusual requirement. Due to western sanctions, you cannot use credit cards in Iran.  So, if you want to have a confirmed reservation, you must go to a branch of the hotel's bank and deposit the amount in the hotel's account.  Then you must write your name and dates of check-in check-out on the receipt and fax it to the hotel.  The hotel usually gives you 2-3 hours grace period during which they hold the reservation!   By the time we had found a bank in one of the cities enroute, the branch had just closed!   We called the hotel and said we are not local and to please hold our reservations.  They did.

Reached Zanjan in the evening.   Found some diesel fuel and filled the tanks.   At the petrol station, there was a long line of trucks waiting.  Only one leaking fuel dispenser was working.    There were a number of drivers gathered around the pump.   When they saw our van with its U.S. plate, the front line driver chatted for a brief time, then told me to get in front of the line.   It felt uncomfortable doing it.  I hesitated, walked down the line and asked a few of the other trucks behind the front one.   They all said of course, go ahead!   Really nice of them.   This was the last fuel we were to receive in Iran!  We were two days of driving away from the Turkish border.   Thank goodness for our car's near 800 mile (1300 km) range.  (Actually, near the Turkish border, one petrol station operator allowed us to get 20 litres of someone else's ration).   Thanks to our external auxiliary fuel tanks we made it to Turkey without refueling.   I am glad, at the time, I didn't know this would be our last fueling!  I would have been a nervous wreck by the time we crossed the border into Turkey!